THE REAL McCOY'S LOT.005J is a 12.5 oz. right twill natural indigo denim jacket, following a 1904 style when it was known as a "Pleated Front Blouse." Produced from the early 1900s to the 1920s, this pattern represents a significant evolution in workwear. Initially designed as a working garment, it reflects the period's innovation of reinforcing pants with copper rivets, which eventually led to the creation of the denim jacket. The jacket is made using an uneven yarn known as "tandem yarn," reconstructing a piece that embodies the texture of the early days of denim garments.

The early model of this denim jacket featured distinctive characteristics such as smaller front buttons and narrower box stitching compared to later models. The button attachment system used iron buttons, and the dome-shaped rivets reflect craftsmanship from this era. The jacket pocket, positioned lower on the left side without a flap, is a hallmark of this early jacket style.

THE REAL McCOY'S LOT.005J is crafted with a square collar, a design feature that predates the pointed style commonly seen in later models. Other true-to-era details include single-stitched seams at the armholes, body, and under the sleeves, all of which are older construction methods of denim jackets.

To capture the textural and color finish qualities of this pattern, THE REAL McCOY'S LOT.005J is crafted with a 5.8 count warp yarn, which is thicker than standard denim, and a 10 count weft yarn, which is finer. This combination aims to replicate the irregular texture of early denim. The yarns are spun using traditional methods and dyed with natural indigo, reflecting the techniques of the era. Cotton waste and brown cotton are mixed and spun using Japan's oldest spinning machine. Finally, the yarns are woven on a vintage shuttle loom, completing the authentic look and feel of the period.

THE REAL McCOY'S LOT.005J features a pleated front, copper rivets, and economy rivet buttons.