Joe McCoy
MA26010
Cotton, Discharge Printed Fabric
BLACK
Originating in 19th-century Britain and Ireland, the NEWSBOY CAP, also known as the Baker Boy cap, became popular among working-class boys on newspaper rounds. Flat caps were the original uniform of the newsboys and became a staple piece of workwear on the railway and for factory workers. Since then, the adoption of the newsboy cap as an accessory has endured among sportsmen, drivers, and the gentry.
In the early 1900s, calico fabrics surged in popularity, specifically they were targeted towards railroad workers and laborers. Coinciding with this, 'discharge printing' emerged as a technique in fabric manufacturing. The technique of discharge printing involves dyeing of fabrics, followed by the creation of a pattern, through a process that removes dye from the fabric via oxidation.
By the 1910s, manufacturers were producing custom discharge prints for railway companies, often incorporating company marks. Indigo was the most common dye used for these fabrics, a tradition brought to America through European textile practices. Discharge-printed indigo cloth would later become known as Wabash.
Black Wabash represents a far rarer variation. Rather than indigo, the fabric is dyed using sulfur, and is believed to have been developed in the 1930s as demand for indigo cloth declined. The small number of surviving examples suggests limited production. This garment reproduces that scarce vintage material through close examination of original pieces.
While historical records are incomplete, sulfur-dyed Wabash fabrics do exist in vintage workwear. Sulfur dye is known to fade in line with its original tone, and in the case of black, the fabric is expected to age gradually towards a softer gray with wear and washing.
The term "Wabash fabric" likely originated from its adoption by the Wabash Railroad for uniforms. It became colloquially known as 'Wabash' fabric and was briefly named as such in clothing catalogues from the 1910s. Decades later, when the fabric experienced a revival, it was once again given the moniker ‘Wabash.’
The BLACK WABASH NEWSBOY CAP features meticulously reproduced details, including a traditional 8-panel round crown design, flat visor with single press stud, lined band, and all-cotton stitching.
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