THE REAL McCOY’S LOT. 005 follows the pattern of some of the earliest five-pocket denim pants. These early five-pocket denim pants, reinforced with rivets, were born in San Francisco in the 1870s as durable workwear. These pants, which later became known as jeans, were originally called overalls and were popular among workers on the West Coast. By the early 1900s, the design had evolved from having a single back pocket on the right side to two back pockets, creating the prototype for the modern five-pocket denim. These early denim pants also featured what was known as a watch pocket, similar to what we now know as a coin pocket.

Interestingly, even in these early years of denim, orange sewing thread was used. Some say this choice was made to match the color of the copper rivets. The sewing thread used during this period was linen, which would eventually be replaced with cotton in the 1920s. This product replicates the estimated 1906 design. Until the 1890s, individual craftsmen made each pair of pants by hand. By the early 1900s, however, the scale and specifications of factories suggest that sewing tasks had become specialized. This is evident in features like the lock-stitched fly, which indicates the use of advanced factory equipment for the time. Despite this industrial progress, details such as the two-piece waistband and felled seams on the back yoke demonstrate the meticulous, labor-intensive craftsmanship reminiscent of tailored clothing.

To capture the textural and color finish qualities of this pattern, THE REAL McCOY'S LOT.005 is crafted with a 5.8 count warp yarn, which is thicker than standard denim, and a 10 count weft yarn, which is finer. This combination aims to replicate the irregular texture of early denim. The yarns are spun using traditional methods and dyed with natural indigo, reflecting the techniques of the era. Cotton waste and brown cotton are mixed and spun using Japan's oldest spinning machine. Finally, the yarns are woven on a vintage shuttle loom, completing the authentic look and feel of the period. It includes a riveted cinch back waist featuring a double prong.